Sunday, January 15, 2012

McCalls 1073 from 1969 by Designer Molly Parnis

Several months ago I procured this darling 60's pattern from Ebay. You can read about it in a previous post

The first step I took was to preserve the pattern by copying it as is on interfacing with grid lines.

The pattern says it is for a 27 inch waist.  Yeah, right.  Like anyone ever has the small waist size listed on patterns compared to the bust.  (Maybe I'm just jealous.)  I thought that since this didn't have a fitted waist I would be fine, but upon making the muslin I decided to add a little to the waist.

I had to think about how to add to the waist since there was a side skirt piece in addition to the front and back bodice pieces. But I figured if I added a little to each side of the side piece and half as much to the each edge of the front and back bodice where they came together, it would work.  

When I finally got down to sewing the dress, I chose a purple washable moleskin which turned out to be the worst.  It was slippery, it frayed terribly, it was unforgiving and would stretch out of shape without bouncing back.  The inside of the finished dress looks atrocious, and the neck in the back is a slightly misshapen.

The pattern calls for and underlining which I didn't bother with.  But that would lend itself well to a Hong Kong seam and help make the finishing on the inside of the dress look better. Although I'm not sure how to do a Hong Kong seam on a curve that has to be clipped. Suggestions anyone?  

In the end I am pleased with the dress.  After making adjustments to the waist, it was a little big at the sides even though I took it in after trying it on.  The pattern itself was easy to follow, although one instruction said to make a simulated bound button hole with no explanation .  I didn't know what that meant so I didn't do it.  The neck facing pattern piece will have to be redrafted as it was not large enough to fit the bodice front and back on both the muslin and the dress.  The tab at the collar is my favorite detail.  You could make the dress without it but it adds just the right splash of personality. 

McCalls 1073 from 1969: 4 out of 5 stars.


  1. What a gorgeous color. Such a beautiful choice in fabric. The gathering at the top is very flattering. Glad I saw your blog on Sew Retro!

  2. Looks gorgeous! And I'm looking forward to seeing your elongated Meringue in the Flickr files once we're all done and dusted!

  3. I like the tab detail and the rich blue color on you. And I love the pattern!

  4. It's a seriously flattering style on you; you look great in your new dress!

    A new follower!

  5. Love the color, it's a very nice dress, very flattering!


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